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CAPITAL NICOSIA/LEFKOSA - POPULATION 788,457 - AREA 9,250 SQ KM (OF WHICH 3355 SQ KM ARE IN NORTH CYPRUS) - OFFICIAL LANGUAGES GREEK, TURKISH

Something's afoot in Cyprus. Acrimoniously severed into Greek and Turkish chunks, there have been reunification rumblings in the wall-divided capital (though sceptics argue it's just bluster). Meanwhile, tourism development continues apace, particularly in the villa-infested Greek south – though the northern Turks are catching on. But the wilds are still wild. In the south, take to the Troodos Mountains, where a long-distance walking trail is currently being way marked. In the north, the Karpas Peninsula beckons – virtually resort - free, its beaches (seasonal home to hatching turtles) are some of the Med's best, and the island's first ecovillage – Buyukkonuk – is the place to make squeaky haloumi, like a true Cypriot.

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