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CAPITAL TEHRAN - POPULATION 65.9 MILLION - AREA 1,648,000 SQ KM -OFFICIAL LANGUAGE PERSIAN

With all the bad press it's been getting lately and the rampant rumors concerning its budding nuclear programme, it's hardly surprising that Iran isn't topping any current tourism lists. But for those still making their way here – and there are plenty of independent travellers still doing so – the welcome is as warm as ever. You'll find plenty of space to explore its ruins, such as the impressive ziggurat at Choqa Zanbil, or even ski its slopes at Shemshak or Dizin where you'll encounter a surprisingly lively (though alcohol-free) après-ski scene. Try to avoid travel during Ramadan (September in 2009), when almost everything shuts up shop during daylight for a month or so, but do look out for the more ebullient Magnificent Victory of the Islamic Revolution of Iran Day on 11 February.

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