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CAPITAL CHISINAU - POPULATION 4.3 MILLION - AREA 33,843 SQ KM -OFFICIAL LANGUAGE MOLDOVAN

Visitor numbers are definitely on the up in this tiny former fragment of the Soviet Union – but from such a low base it's unlikely you'll see much evidence of it as you wander around leafy Chisinau. And you will wander the capital, as there's barely a hotel outside it. Day trips will take you to the surrounding (and excellent) wineries and underground monasteries – Orheiul Vechi comes with a feisty resident monk – but also to the weird world of Transdniestr. Expect a chilly reception in this breakaway republic that shows no sign of giving up its battle for independence from Moldova, but also expect a glimpse of a truly secret Europe.

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